Tretinoin is undoubtedly one of the most powerful skincare ingredients out there. It’s heavily studied with some impressive before and afters to show for it. But despite its reputation for being the gold standard treatment for addressing signs of ageing, people are wary of trying it.
 
We break down exactly what tretinoin is and how you can get the most out of it, with top tips from a consultant dermatologist.

What is tretinoin? 

Tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) is a vitamin A derivative used to treat a range of skin concerns, including acne, hyperpigmentation and fine lines and wrinkles. It works by increasing the skin’s cell turnover which helps to shed dead skin, aiding reduction of breakouts, treating dark spots and helping reduce wrinkles.

It comes in various strengths and your doctor or dermatologist will help you choose which is best suited for you. Most people are put on either 0.025%, 0.05% or 0.1%, with the latter the strongest.

Why is tretinoin prescription-only? 

Tretinoin is prescription-only because it’s such a powerful ingredient— it is much stronger than the retinoids (like retinol) you can get on the shelves in your local pharmacy. “We monitor its use and tailor the strength to your skin’s needs,” says Dr Clare Kiely, Consultant Dermatologist and Founder, The Skin Diary. Misuse could actually worsen your skin (with issues like peeling and irritation), and no one wants that.

Tips for using tretinoin 

If you’re using tretinoin, your prescribing doctor should give you all of the tips you need. But sometimes there’s a lot of information to take in during these appointments, and you might forget to ask questions. Or, you could simply be curious about using it and wanting to find out more. We've rounded up some top tips from the pros that can help you get the best out of the ingredient in your routine.

Apply to dry skin  

This is a simple but important tip. Dr Kiely notes that it should be applied to completely dry skin (after cleansing) to avoid irritation. This is because applying products to wet skin can increase absorption.

Tretinoin sandwich

If you have dry skin or are new to using the ingredient, you might’ve heard of something called the ‘tretinoin sandwich’, or 'sandwiching'. This is where you apply a thin layer of moisturiser, followed by a small amount of tretinoin and then finish off with another layer of moisturiser. This gives the tretinoin a ‘buffer’ between the skin, which helps avoid irritation. However, Dr Anna Hemming,  Etre Vous Expert and Founder and Medical Director of Thames Skin Clinic, notes that this technique isn’t recommended for every skin concern, so if you’re unsure how best to apply, discuss with your prescribing doctor.

Only use a pea-sized amount

Less is more when it comes to tretinoin because it’s so potent. “Unless told otherwise by your specialist doctor, only a pea-sized amount is necessary for the entire face. Over-applying will not speed up results but will increase irritation,” says Dr Hemming.

Moisturiser goggles 

This is a fun name for applying moisturiser around your eye area before using your tretinoin to avoid sensitive areas that are prone to irritation. You can also apply moisturiser around the mouth and corners of the nose, which also experience more dryness than other areas.

Start slowly 

On a similar note to only using a small amount of the ingredient, speed is not the aim of the game here. Start slowly, using it only once a week, and increase from there once you feel like your skin is tolerating the tretinoin well. Some people can increase their usage to multiple times a week, while others can’t. Neither is better than the other, it’s simply what skin can tolerate; you’ll still see results so don’t be tempted to overdo it.

Don't forget to moisturise 

“Hydrating your skin properly can counteract the drying effects of tretinoin,” explains Dr Hemming. She recommends looking for soothing ingredients in your moisturiser like hyaluronic acid, ceramides and glycerin.

SPF is a non negotiable 

Remember to wear sunscreen. We hope you’re using a broad-spectrum SPF30 and above daily in your routine, whether you’re using tretinoin or not— this is even more important when you are using this potent ingredient. “If your skin is in any way irritated due to tretinoin, this will increase sun sensitivity, so daily sunscreen is a non-negotiable,” says Dr Kiely.

Practice patience 

Sorry but we’re going to say it: you need to exercise some patience. Consistency is key and results don’t happen instantly. Stick with your routine, keep your prescribing doctor up to date with any side effects to adapt your routine and tretinoin strength as necessary, and you’ll soon see results. Trust us, it’s worth the wait.