Making the decision to have dermal fillers is not one that should be rushed—considering all the factors, from cost to downtime, is a must. For these reasons, and especially if you’ve never had them before, going for a ‘trial’ run to see if fillers will suit you sounds very appealing, and like a great first step.

This is what the premise of ‘flash fillers’ promises: the ability to trial filler in areas like the chin, lips and cheeks for a short period (around a week) to determine whether you’d like to commit long-term. But is this a legitimate option that could change the way we approach first time filler appointments, or a bit of a marketing ploy? We looked into the trend, and spoke with an Etre Vous Expert to discover the truth.

What are flash fillers? 

As mentioned, flash fillers promise the opportunity to ‘try as you buy’ long-term, as it were. The idea is that you can attend an appointment to have filler injected into your chosen area that will allow you to see results, but for a much shorter time period (around a week). However, the truth is that they may not be as new and innovative as they pretend to be, and are simply just a different way for certain types of injectables to be marketed to a fresh audience seeking something specific.

“‘Flash filler’ is more of a marketing term than a clearly defined product category,” begins Cosmetic Doctor and Etre Vous Expert Dr Emmaline Ashley. “They [flash fillers] are being marketed as ultra-short-term injectables, designed to offer a subtle enhancement that fades within a matter of days.” However, she notes, “while they’re often compared to traditional hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers, they don’t behave in the same way in terms of structure, volume restoration, or longevity.” Dr Ashley therefore concludes that, “these products seem far more similar to skin boosters than true fillers.”

She also notes that she’s not seen any published research or clinical papers on flash fillers, including exactly what they’re made of. "From what is currently licensed on the UK market, I strongly suspect that these are rebranded or repurposed skin boosters,” says Dr Ashley. Skin boosters are “HA-based treatments that hydrate the skin and improve its quality over time, rather than provide structural support.”

Skin boosters—which indeed can result in temporary plumpness that initially may present like filler—are made from hyaluronic acid like most dermal fillers, but are designed differently. Indeed, they are made up of “non cross-linked hyaluronic acid” that boasts a lighter structure than traditional dermal fillers, which are cross-linked. Ashley notes they may also contain “extra components, including antioxidants and vitamins” and much like filler, are administered through injection.

How long do they last? 

As mentioned, a side effect of skin boosters is a temporary plumpness, meaning you get that short-lived subtle filler effect. This is only going to last for a short period of time, however (likely days), whereas hydration and general skin improvement is a longer-term benefit (we’re talking months), depending on the skin booster used.

Dr Ashley explains that “media reports suggest flash fillers last five to seven days, which is quite different from conventional dermal fillers that usually last between six months to over a year.” Therefore, she adds: “If these are indeed skin boosters, then their hydrating effects may linger subtly beyond the visible plumpness, as they also work by stretching fibroblasts and encouraging collagen production over time.”

In short, you’ll only get an enhanced plumpness for a short period of time, but it may not look exactly like the results of filler, as all the marketing suggests.

Where can you have them done?

This form of hyaluronic acid injectable can be administered in a number of areas around the face such as the cheeks and forehead, but in certain areas you’ll notice that ‘plumping’ side effect more than others. Dr Ashley explains that she offers “some specialised skin boosters in certain areas, like the lips, that will give a slight plumping and hydrating effect, or in fine lines in the face.”

However, she does note that “these are unlikely to produce the same level of structure, projection, lift or reshaping” as true dermal fillers.

So, are they a good way to test out longer-term fillers?

Yes and no. While you may be able to see what your lips or skin looks like with a slightly more ‘plumped’ effect but with less commitment, Dr Ashley explains that it’s not ‘like for like,’ and that the experience and results are rather different.

“If someone is looking for a soft preview of what having an injectable treatment itself might be like, in terms of needles and recovery, it can help ease hesitancy,” she begins. “But, if they’re hoping to understand the full experience of structural filler, in terms of shape, support and longevity, flash fillers won’t offer that. Skin boosters don’t behave the same way biomechanically as cross-linked HA fillers do.”

In short, she urges patients to be cautious if considering trying out this new ‘trend’: “There’s currently no regulatory framework specific to flash fillers, so always ensure the practitioner is medically qualified and using licensed, transparent products.”