As we know, the longevity and regenerative skin trend has been enjoying its moment in the spotlight for the past couple of years now. In terms of aesthetic treatments, we’re focusing far more on long-term skin health and building the best results over time, rather than instantaneous, obvious results that work in the short term.
 
So it’s perhaps no real surprise that polynucleotides (the ‘salmon sperm facial’) have taken centre stage since 2023. In fact, one report found that searches for the term had gone up an incredible 2,446% in recent years, versus searches for ‘lip filler near me’ dipping 31% in early 2025, according to Google Trends.

It’s clear the regenerative treatment is a new firm favourite, and now we're looking for more versatile ways to enjoy polynucleotides. Take for example, our newfound fascination with PDRN—commonly referred to as the ‘topical version of polynucleotides', the ingredient has amassed immense popularity within the K-Beauty space. And as far as professional treatments go, we’re now looking to other areas of the face and body that may benefit from this kind of treatment.

Case in point: polynucleotides for the lips, which EV Expert, Dentist and Cosmetic Doctor Dr Raquel Amado has noticed rising in fascination and favour, in-clinic. “This treatment has become increasingly popular as more patients are moving towards natural, regenerative options and away from overly volumised lips. It’s very much about looking refreshed and healthy, rather than ‘done,’” she says. So should you consider polynucleotides over filler? Here’s what you need to know.

Polynucleotides: a refresher 

Let’s start with a quick refresher on polynucleotides as a treatment. As mentioned, they celebrated what seemed like overnight success in 2023, mostly due to an ongoing cultural shift affecting aesthetics. As a regenerative injectable treatment that focuses primarily on longevity rather than instantaneous, obvious results, polynucleotides were perfectly in-tune with a modern audience.

"Polynucleotides are regenerative treatments made from purified DNA fragments,” explains Dr Amado. “Rather than adding volume, they work by stimulating your own cells (particularly fibroblasts) to produce more collagen and elastin, while also improving hydration and supporting tissue repair.” This means longer-lasting results over time. Common areas injected with polynucleotides include the under-eyes, neck and décolletage, and across the face.

How do they work for lips?

The treatment is used in a very similar way for the lips, working to regenerate while supporting long-term skin health. “When used in the lips specifically, the goal is not to make them bigger, but to restore their natural quality, improving hydration, smoothness, elasticity, and overall lip health,” notes Amado. This means a focus on longevity, rather than quick-fixes or instantaneous volume, re-shaping or definition. “The idea is to enhance what’s already there, rather than changing the shape or adding bulk.”

This doesn’t mean you won’t notice a subtle plumping effect, but this comes more from the resulting healthier skin cells, as well as more hydrated lips, rather than product that directly impacts volume in an obvious way.

How does it differ from lip filler?

The main difference, as mentioned, is the physical transformation—with hyaluronic acid dermal filler, the result is instantly fuller lips with more volume. This affects the shape and definition of the lips from the off. With polynucleotides, you will enjoy a subtle plumpness, but this is due to the enhanced hydration and healthier skin cells your lips will now have. It’s more about what’s happening under the surface: unlike filler, polynucleotides focus on regeneration, stimulating collagen and elastin, and hydration for a longer period.

“Unlike traditional dermal fillers, which can sometimes leave lips looking puffy or overworked, polynucleotides take a more sophisticated, regenerative approach,” explains Dr Miriam Adebibe, who offers the treatment in-clinic. “By treating not only the lips themselves but also the surrounding tissue, they encourage natural skin cell renewal, improving texture, softness, and overall lip quality over time.”

“In contrast to traditional lip fillers, which physically add volume and sit within the tissue, polynucleotides are fully reabsorbed and instead work by regenerating the cells within the lips,” adds Amado. “So rather than ‘filling,’ we are encouraging the lips to behave more like younger, healthier tissue.”

Who is the treatment suitable for?

“This treatment is suitable for anyone who wants to maintain or improve the quality of their lips,  particularly if you’ve noticed dryness, fine lines, or age-related changes,” says Dr Amado, adding that it’s a great option for those who prefer a natural look, or for anyone that has struggled with migration or overfilling with ‘traditional’ lip filler.

Dr Miriam adds that this is the perfect option to “refresh” the lips and surrounding skin, without the need for dramatic volume. “It’s about enhancing what’s already there, rather than changing it.”

Polynucleotides for lips: need-to-know  

This injectable treatment works quite similarly to traditional dermal filler: downtime is around 24-48 hours, and side effects mostly include mild swelling and discomfort. Numbing cream can be used, and you should expect to pay around £400-£800.

Dr Amado recommends a course of 2-3 sessions spaced at around 3-4 weeks apart, with maintenance appointments afterwards every 6 months or so, depending on the individual.