Have you noticed how certain skincare products that work well for most of the year, don’t seem to be as effective in winter? If anything, they seem to make your skin look and feel worse.

“Winter can leave skin feeling particularly vulnerable due to cold air, low humidity, and indoor heating, all of which disrupt the natural barrier and can lead to dryness, irritation and sensitivity,” says EV Expert Julie Scott, Owner and Clinical Director of Facial Aesthetics.
 
So, adjusting your regime to account for both the season and your skin’s changing needs is essential—choosing the right ingredients in winter is especially important if you already have sensitive or dry skin.

You may find that certain ingredients that do not cause issues in warmer weather (when skin naturally produces more sebum), are no longer suitable when temperatures drop. They may even aggravate or irritate skin. "Focus on hydration, barrier protection, and soothing ingredients," suggests Scott. "A skin analysis can help to identify any seasonal changes that may be affecting your skin."

So, what are the ingredients that you’d do well to avoid, and what should you use instead?

Retinoids

Retinoids, including the most common type, retinol, vary in strength and may, in some cases, cause redness or irritation. “Retinoids can be too harsh during the colder months, especially for sensitive or thinning skins,” says Scott. “Switch to gentler alternatives like bakuchiol (a plant-based alternative to retinol) which offers similar rejuvenating benefits without irritation.”

Alternatives to try

• ZO Skin Health Firming Serum is formulated with tetrapeptides, sweet yellow clover, and an exclusive anti-inflammatory, antioxidant plant stem cell complex. It's retinoid free but offers the same skin firming benefits without the dryness.
• Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides is a plant-based retinol alternative to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles, plump the skin and improve overall texture.

Alcohol (ethanol, isopropyl alcohol)

Alcohol has a drying effect and can also strip the skin of its natural oils, which can lead to irritation.  “Avoid alcohol-based products,” says Scott. “Instead, choose more hydrating options to maintain moisture balance and protect the skin’s barrier.”

Alternatives to try  

• Aesop Parsley Seed Antioxidant Facial Toner has an alcohol-free, antioxidant rich formulation containing parsley seed, lavender stem and blue chamomile to soothe, balance and hydrate the skin. 
• ZO Skin Health Hydrating Cleanser gently cleanses and hydrates the skin, minimising dryness and irritation. Ideal for sensitive skins.

Fragrance

Fragrances, particularly synthetic ones, can irritate sensitive skin and exacerbate skin allergies. “I recommend fragrance-free formulas which are designed for sensitive skins,” says Scott. “Avoid fragrance if you are prone to eczema, psoriasis or rosacea.” In a recent review (Contact Dermatitis, 2021), it was found that fragrance, especially in leave-on products, is the most common skin allergen after nickel. Fragrance can also trigger dermatitis where skin becomes itchy, red, swollen and inflamed.

Alternatives to try

• Green People Scent-Free 24 Hour Cream includes ultra-moisturising cacay oil (a non-irritating, natural bio-retinol), evening primrose oil, prebiotics and baicailin, a powerful antioxidant, to soothe, balance, firm and protect the skin. 
• Paula’s Choice Calm Rescue & Repair Intensive Moisturiser contains prebiotics, peptides and northern truffle, a wild mushroom extract, that is very soothing for sensitive skins.

Propylene glycol 

Propylene glycol is a synthetic, liquid humectant that absorbs water. “It is often added to skincare in small doses to help retain moisture,” says Scott. “But it can cause dryness and irritation, so I recommend opting for richer, more soothing alternatives including humectant plant extracts such as avocado oil, which penetrates deep into the skin and contains antioxidant vitamin E.”

Alternatives to try

• HydroPeptide Soothing Balm contains nourishing organic extra virgin coconut oil, olive butter and avocado oil, antioxidant vitamin E and skin soothing, anti-inflammatory arnica.
• Nakin Active Dew Face Cream combines pomegranate, baobab and argan oils to hydrate, smooth and firm the skin. 

Algae extract

Algae extracts act as thickeners and have water binding and antioxidant properties. The downside is that algae can irritate pores and trigger acne breakouts. “Algae extract can be too stimulating for sensitive skin, particularly in winter,” says Scott.  “I suggest opting for soothing, hydrating ingredients like squalane or jojoba oil.”

Alternatives to try

• Biossance + Omega Repair Cream is a deeply, moisturising face cream, formulated with sugar-cane derived squalene, ceramides, omega fatty acids (3, 6 and 9) and acai berry.
• TRNR Lipid Nourishing Moisturiser is a lightweight, deeply nourishing moisturiser that contains plant-derived ceramides, prebiotic rich yacon root and inulin, squalene and jojoba oil.

Lanolin

Lanolin is a natural, wax like substance (derived from sheep’s wool) that can trigger allergic reactions including redness, swelling and itching. “Lanolin can be too heavy for some skin types, particularly when skin is already sensitive and dry,” says Scott. “Lighter oils such as rosehip, pomegranate or marula oil are great alternatives.”

Alternatives to try 

• Trilogy Line Smoothing Day Cream is a rejuvenating blend of blueberry, strawberry and pomegranate oils, natural amino acids, hyaluronic acid, avocado, evening primrose and jojoba oils.
• ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense provides deep hydration and antioxidant protection to keep skin balanced and resilient in cold weather. Contains safflower (containing oleic and linoleic acids), mandarin, tangerine and lemon peel oils.

Lauric acid

Lauric acid, found in many vegetable oils, has antimicrobial, cleansing and emulsifying effects. “Lauric acid can clog pores and exacerbate acne,” says Scott, “Avoid if you have dry or sensitive skin, or are prone to blemishes and congestion.”

Alternatives to try 

• ZO Skin Health Complexion Clarifying Serum is a better option: it helps balance oil production, refine texture, and maintain a clear, radiant complexion. Proven to decongest skin and reduce shine.
• Beauty Pie Japanfusion Pure Transforming Cleanser is a delicate gel-to-oil-to-milk cleanser, infused with Vitamin E and antioxidant grape extract.

Sodium chloride (salt)

Salt-based exfoliants can be too abrasive and drying in winter—salt draws and absorbs moisture from the skin, leaving it dry and dehydrated. This can lead to irritation and flakiness, especially if you’re already prone to sensitivity. Scott says: “Exfoliants that contain lactic or glycolic acid are much gentler, particularly if you have sensitive skin.”

Alternatives to try

• Medik8 Surface Cleanse is a radiance boosting gel cleanser containing lactic acid, L-mandelic acid and mangoosteen extract to gently exfoliate skin.
• Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser has a creamy formulation containing glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids and jojoba beads to exfoliate and cleanse the skin.