Glycolic acid is one of the best-known alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) in skincare. Derived from sugar cane, the active ingredient is beloved for exfoliation, targeting enlarged and clogged pores, uneven skin texture and hyperpigmentation.

“It works by breaking off the top layer of skin (or the epidermis) through weakening the bonds between the cells, to reveal fresh skin from underneath,” notes EV Expert, GP and Aesthetician Dr Ahmed El Muntasar. “It’s phenomenal when it comes to chemical exfoliation.”

Glycolic acid penetrates deeply into the skin (more so than other AHAs) due to its small molecular size, making it a favourite for many in their skincare routine. But you may be surprised to hear this acid has a myriad of other uses that have nothing to do with facial exfoliation.

We spoke to EV Experts to learn about all the ways you can use glycolic acid in your beauty routine.

To revitalise underarms

The term ‘glycolic acid for underarms’ started to do the rounds on social media recently, but how safe and reliable is the technique—and how does it even work? “Regularly applying a glycolic acid toner or serum to the underarm area can help with discolouration, texture, and even odour control, by breaking down dead skin cells that trap bacteria,” says EV Expert, Director and Medical Practitioner, Dr. Raquel Amado.

Explaining how this works, Dr Amado continues: “By removing dead skin cells and promoting cell turnover, glycolic acid helps smooth the skin, reducing darkness and preventing clogged pores, which can lead to odour. It also helps with ingrown hairs in this area.”

It should be noted that the skin under the arms is usually some of the most sensitive on the body, so if you’re going to try glycolic acid there, start very lightly and patch test a small area first.

To target ingrown hairs 

Whether it’s your legs, underarms or bikini line, ingrown hairs can be a real pain—not to mention a problem that’s difficult to get rid of. Dr Amado recommends reaching for the glycolic if nothing else has worked.

“Glycolic acid can help exfoliate the surface layer of skin, preventing hairs from becoming trapped beneath the skin. By sloughing off dead cells, it allows ingrown hairs to emerge without obstruction, reducing bumps and inflammation,” she says. "This is particularly handy if shaving or waxing are your hair removal methods of choice." Apply glycolic acid with a cotton pad once a day until the hair emerges and can be removed.

For your scalp  

Our focus on scalp care has skyrocketed, as the need for healthy hair amidst bleaching and heated tools has increased. There are, it seems, a million different scalp serums to invest in, but it may be worth reaching for the glycolic acid toner from your skincare routine first to save a little money.

"Applied in small concentrations, glycolic acid can help remove dead skin cells and product buildup from the scalp, promoting healthier hair growth and improving scalp health,” says Dr Amado. “Just like on the face, glycolic acid helps clear away any barrier that might be preventing the scalp from absorbing moisture or nutrients. It’s especially helpful for people with dry, flaky scalp issues.” Part your hair in several different areas and spritz on your glycolic from a spray bottle for best results.

For your body

As well as your facial complexion, skin on the body can benefit from glycolic acid for all kinds of reasons. First, there’s keratosis pilaris, which usually occurs on the arms or thighs and has often been nicknamed ‘chicken skin’ because of its bumpy feel and appearance. As an exfoliator that can penetrate deeply, glycolic acid can really help with this.

“Glycolic acid softens and smooths the rough, bumpy texture often caused by keratosis pilaris by exfoliating the dead skin that clogs hair follicles,” says Dr Amado. ”By loosening the build-up of keratin in hair follicles, glycolic acid can reduce the appearance of these raised bumps.”

Similarly, those who experience rough skin on other areas such as elbows and knees may also find glycolic to be a handy solution. “Glycolic acid can help soften and brighten the thickened, dry skin typically found on knees and elbows—areas that often go untreated in typical skincare routines,” continues Dr Amado.

“The exfoliating effect of glycolic acid helps remove the dead skin that builds up in these areas, improving texture and reducing discolouration.”