Want to keep your skin looking youthful? Inflammaging is a common problem that can affect the skin's health, yet it is often overlooked, says EV Expert Dr Emmaline Ashley, Cosmetic Physician and Founder of Ashley Aesthetics.

"Inflammaging describes a state of chronic, low-grade inflammation that happens beneath the surface of the skin," she says. "This inflammatory process slowly accelerates fine lines, dullness, uneven skin tone, loss of firmness, youthful bounce and plumpness."

Unlike acute inflammation (the redness and swelling you’d see in response to allergies, infections, cuts and scrapes), Ashley emphasises that inflammaging is subtle, persistent and cumulative—the kind of damage you only notice when your skin suddenly doesn’t look as fresh as it used to.

Ashley says that the majority of women she sees in clinic who present with concerns about premature ageing, show signs consistent with inflammaging. "Skin appears tired and lacks radiance, there may be visible capillaries, persistent redness, uneven texture, and a loss of resilience where the skin doesn't spring back as it should.

"Often patients describe their skin as looking inflamed or irritated," she continues. "They might also notice their skin reacts more readily to products that were previously well tolerated, or they suddenly develop sensitivity they didn't have in their twenties."

Why does it happen?

The process is closely connected to systemic inflammation throughout the body. "As we age, our immune system becomes less efficient at resolving inflammatory responses, says Dr Ashley. ‘Inflammaging is essentially your immune system stuck in a state of alert, releasing inflammatory messengers (pro-inflammatory cytokines)."

Whole body systemic inflammation is an underlying factor in many common conditions such as cardiovascular disease, metabolic disorders such as type 2 diabetes, autoimmune disorders and cancer.

"In the skin, this ‘silent inflammation’ gradually breaks down collagen and elastin, impairs the skin barrier, disrupts normal cellular renewal and impacts repair," Ashley continues.

"There are many factors that can cause inflammation including UV exposure, chronic stress, poor sleep, high alcohol intake, smoking, and environmental pollution. Research shows an imbalanced gut microbiome can also drive systemic inflammation—those with chronic inflammatory conditions such as rosacea, eczema, or autoimmune disorders already have heightened baseline inflammation."

Encouragingly, Dr Ashley says that you can beat inflammaging by combining clinic treatments with consistent skincare and lifestyle modifications. "Research has identified multiple molecular pathways involved in skin inflammaging, and we now have clinical treatments and natural compounds that can target these pathways effectively."

Lifestyle tactics include prioritising sleep, as lack of sleep acts as a stressor on the body, increasing inflammation; managing stress; opting for an anti-inflammatory diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids and colourful vegetables, and avoiding ultra-processed foods.

In-clinic treatments to try

LED Light Therapy 
"LED light therapy can calm inflammation at a cellular level, stimulate collagen production, and improve healing," says Amish Patel, BEM, Aesthetics Practitioner and Skincare Expert, Intrigue Cosmetic Clinic. A recent study (Skin Research & Technology, 2023) showed that red light therapy stimulates the mitochondrial ATP (adenosine triphosphate) production, which can help to help to reverse the visible signs of ageing such as lines, wrinkles and sagging.

Microneedling  
"Microneedling stimulates repair and collagen synthesis—it also enhances the absorption of anti-inflammatory serums," says Patel. "This treatment works well with a tailored skincare routine."

Radio frequency 
"Radio frequency uses controlled heat to stimulate collagen production to improve the skin’s elasticity and firmness," says Patel. "This reduces inflammatory degradation, and can be particularly effective for firming lax skin linked to inflammaging."

Chemical peels 
"Chosen carefully, chemical peels can accelerate cellular turnover and improve the skin’s ability to repair and regenerate," says Dr Ashley. "Your practitioner will advise you on the most suitable peel for your skin."

At home products to try

Sun protection
Use a broad-spectrum SPF50 or higher, regardless of weather. This single intervention does more to prevent ongoing inflammaging than almost anything else, as UV radiation is the primary external driver of the whole process. Alumier MD Sheer Hydration Broad Spectrum SPF30 is a good option.

Antioxidant serum
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid at 10-20%) neutralises free radicals before they can trigger inflammation. Skin Diligent Vitamin C Serum in Oil is formulated with a rare, lipid form of vitamin C that does not oxidise and is rapidly absorbed by the skin. Botanical antioxidants such as green tea polyphenols and resveratrol also have protective and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Barrier repair moisturiser
Ceramide-rich moisturisers help support barrier function and reduce inflammation—choose formulations containing a ratio of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids that mimic the skin's natural lipid composition. Paula’s Choice Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturiser with tripeptide-5 and ceramides strengthens the skin barrier, smooths the complexion and visibly improves signs of skin ageing.

Niacinamide 
Reduces inflammation and strengthens the skin barrier. Glow Recipe Watermelon Niacinamide Dew Drops combines niacinamide (2%), amino-acid rich watermelon and hyaluronic acid to give skin a dewy glow.

Centella asiatica
Research shows centella asiatica inhibits inflammatory pathway activities and protects DNA and UV induced damage. Ongredients Centella Asiatica Barrier Calming Lotion soothes redness and irritation, and calms inflammation.

Retinoids
These normalise cellular turnover, stimulate collagen production, and regulate inflammatory pathways. "For inflammaged skin, I recommend starting with lower concentrations or gentler forms (retinaldehyde or encapsulated retinol) and building tolerance gradually," says Dr Ashley. Skin Diligent Cel™ Retinal Serum combines encapsulated retinal with a breakthrough epigenetic bioactive complex which inhibits the enzymes that damage collagen.

Restorative moisturiser
Medik8 Advanced Night Restore combines a multi ceramide complex, with antioxidant saskatoon berry and dragonfruit extracts to protect the skin barrier.