As we grow older, our skin loses its youthfulness, and over time our once smooth, taut and luminous complexions start to show the first signs of ageing. Cue fine lines and wrinkles. But while they may seem similar, fine lines and wrinkles are quite different in both their formation and treatment.

Fortunately, with the right skincare routine and professional interventions, these visible signs of ageing can be minimised. Here's a breakdown of the difference between fine lines and wrinkles, and how to treat them, with insights from three of the UK’s top aesthetic experts.

Fine lines explained

Fine lines are the shallow creases that appear on the skin’s surface, and they typically emerge in your late 20s to early 30s. “One of the first signs of ageing, they form in areas of repetitive facial movement, such as around the eyes (crow’s feet), mouth and forehead,” shares Etre Vous Expert, Aesthetician and Ace Skin Health Clinic Founder, Corina Mihalache.

No one is immune to them, however, “people with dry skin tend to exhibit fine lines more prominently due to lower skin hydration. Lighter skin tones, particularly Fitzpatrick types I and II, also tend to develop fine lines earlier due to their increased vulnerability to UV damage which breaks down collagen in the skin, which is required to keep our skin firm, plump and taut.

"Those with melanin-rich skin tend to present with fine lines later, due to its natural photo protection against UV damage. Conversely, darker skin tones may develop fine lines earlier if their lifestyles are in need of an overhaul—think stress, sleep deprivation, smoking, exposure to pollutants, dehydration, poor diet and too much alcohol,” says Mihalache.

At-home treatment options

You can’t completely eliminate all of your fine lines, but they can be significantly softened and reduced with the right skincare regime and treatments. “A good starting point would be to incorporate retinoids into your routine—these vitamin A derivatives stimulate collagen production and speed up cell turnover, which tightens and smooths lines," reveals Aesthetic Doctor, Joney De Souza. "Hyaluronic acid is another key ingredient, as it deeply hydrates the skin, making it appear nice and plump," he continues. "Vitamin C is essential for brightening skin and protecting against free radical damage that can accelerate ageing. Sunscreen (SPF30 or higher) is also crucial to prevent UV damage, which contributes to the formation of fine lines."

Since lifestyle factors can play a role in the formation of fine lines, it’s important to stay well hydrated and eat a diet rich in antioxidants and vitamins A, C, and E as these will benefit your overall health, which will be reflected in your skin quality. “Be sure to avoid smoking and excessive alcohol, which can dehydrate the skin and break down collagen,” urges Etre Vous Expert, Dr Emmaline Ashley. 

In-clinic treatment options 

As with most skin complaints, it’s best to target fine lines from all angles. So, when it comes to effective professional treatments for reducing fine lines, Mihalache recommends chemical peels at a light to medium-depth, as they exfoliate the uppermost layers of the skin, improving texture and stimulating collagen. Exosomes also work wonders as they deliver growth factors and peptides to cells to aid in the rejuvenate and repair of the skin.

De Souza is an advocate for needle-based treatments like microneedling: “It’s an excellent option as it encourages collagen production and skin renewal.” He also offers botulinum toxin injections in his clinic for the treatment of fine lines as, “these can soften dynamic fine lines caused by facial muscle movement, particularly around the eyes and forehead.”

Wrinkles decoded

Wrinkles begin as fine lines, and are essentially deeper creases or folds in the skin. “Just like fine lines, they typically appear in areas of repetitive movement such as the forehead, around the eyes (crow’s feet), and mouth (smile lines)," explains Ashley. "The result of natural long-term structural changes in the dermis, including collagen loss, elastin breakdown and reduced skin hydration—as well as gravity and lifestyle factors—wrinkles are usually more permanent than fine lines.”

Just like fine lines, all skin types and tones can develop wrinkles—it’s simply the timing and severity that varies. It stands to reason that those who develop fine lines later in life will also develop wrinkles later too, unless there are major lifestyle factors that accelerate wrinkle formation. “Lighter skin tones may show wrinkles earlier due to their UV sensitivity and thinner dermal layers, while darker skin tones, which contain more collagen and melanin, generally start to wrinkle later. However, Black and brown skin can still develop deep wrinkles if no protective measures are taken,” shares Mihalache.

As with fine lines, a comprehensive approach is necessary, however, you’ll likely need to take things up a notch to make a major dent.

At-home treatment options

“A diet high in antioxidants and low in sugar (to prevent glycation) are non-negotiables, as is avoiding smoking and excessive alcohol consumption if you really want to stave off wrinkles,” says Mihalache.

And just like with fine lines, “sunscreen is a must to protect against UV induced ageing, while retinoids remain the gold standard for wrinkle reduction as they improve skin turnover and thickness. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid promote cell renewal, vitamin C supports collagen synthesis and brightens the skin, and ceramides and niacinamide help maintain a healthy skin barrier, which is crucial for ageing skin,” adds Mihalache.

In-clinic treatment options 

For the big guns, in-clinic treatments will likely make the biggest dent (outside of surgery) on your wrinkles. “Dermal fillers restore volume to static wrinkles and folds by filling them out, while fractional laser releases energy in the top and middle layers of the skin to stimulate collagen and improve skin texture," reveals Dr Ashley. "Radio frequency and ultrasound devices tighten skin and stimulate collagen—regenerative treatments like polynucleotides and exosomes enhance skin rejuvenation by promoting healing and collagen production.”

Botulinum toxin injections can also provide significant results, and are most effective against dynamic wrinkles caused by muscle activity, such as the frown lines dubbed 11s that appear between your eyebrows when you concentrate or frown, rather than wrinkles that run down the cheeks, for example.

There you have it. By combining the right lifestyle habits, skincare products and professional treatments, you can maintain youthful-looking skin for years to come—and perhaps even turn back the clock on some of those fine lines and wrinkles along the way. It's never too early, or too late to start.