
What are peptides and why are they so popular?
Peptides are naturally occurring within our skin and essential to its health. "They’re short chains of amino acids which makes them the building blocks of proteins like collagen, elastin and keratin, all essential for firm, youthful skin," says Aesthetic Doctor and EV Expert, Dr Raquel Amado.“They serve as messengers that signal the skin to produce more of these structural proteins, helping to improve elasticity, texture, and overall resilience,” she continues.
Peptides within product formulations have catapulted in popularity recently, with skincare enthusiasts discovering their many magical benefits—indeed, Google Trends saw a 37 per cent increase in global searches for the term ‘peptides’ between December 2024 and February 2025, and they continue to rise as the year progresses. But why now?
“There are a couple of reasons peptides are having such a moment,” explains Aesthetic Doctor and EV Expert, Dr Emmaline Ashley. “Firstly, they offer impressive skin-rejuvenating benefits without the irritation associated with some other actives,” she begins. “Secondly, they’re incredibly versatile; peptides are a broad class of substances—they don’t just do one thing. They can also be used in everything from serums and moisturisers, to hair and lash growth products.”
How do peptides work in skincare formulas?
As well as naturally occurring within the human body, peptides are commonly used in skincare which, as mentioned, is where they’re experiencing real interest and demand. In this way, they are used to ‘mimic’ peptides we already have in the skin to support its health and youth.“In skincare, peptides penetrate the skin and send signals to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin,” notes Dr Amado, with Dr Ashley adding that this can help to “repair damage and strengthen the skin barrier,” amongst other benefits such as hydrating, firming and soothing, particularly when used in tandem with other ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides.
There are different groups and varying ‘types’ of peptides, with the following being the most notable currently, according to the experts:
- Tripeptides: These are regenerative and can repair skin at a cellular level. Examples include Matrixyl 3000, which is a combination of tripeptides that “boosts collagen production and reduces wrinkles,” says Dr Ashley.
- Hexapeptides: Hexapeptides can improve elasticity and repair damage. Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) is currently popular and has been “dubbed ‘Botox in a jar,’” according to Dr Amado. “It relaxes facial muscles to smooth expression lines,” she says.
- Copper peptides: Currently big in skincare, Dr Ashley says these “enhance skin healing and improve elasticity.”
- Acetyl tetrapeptides: These are a good choice for boosting hydration, reducing puffiness and strengthening skin. Dr Amado recognises acetyl tetrapeptide-2 as an example that “improves skin elasticity by mimicking the effects of thymopoietin, a hormone linked to youthful skin resilience.”
Are there any drawbacks to using peptides?
Experts agree peptides are generally well tolerated by most in skincare, even those with sensitive skin. On very rare occasions, those who are very sensitive may experience a reaction, but usually if peptides are used in conjunction with certain other actives like glycolic or salicylic acid.As well as the potential for skin to feel overwhelmed while used alongside certain other actives, their combination can also lessen their effectiveness. “Exfoliating acids like glycolic or salicylic acid can break down the peptide bonds, making them less effective,” explains Dr Ashley. For this reason, it’s best to use them on different days.
Dr Amado also points out that peptides don’t deliver instant gratification. “Consistent use is necessary, and noticeable improvements can take weeks to months,” she says, adding that they should be included in a routine that’s already comprehensive, and combined with other actives like antioxidants, hydration boosters and SPF for maximum benefits.
Can peptides complement aesthetic treatments?
If you have aesthetic treatments such as dermal filler, skin boosters or muscle-relaxing injections, peptides can complement your recovery and results beautifully.“Peptides complement aesthetic treatments by accelerating repair and enhancing collagen production,” confirms Dr Amado, who recommends them for use after microneedling or laser—peptides help the skin rebuild collagen faster, speeding up healing and improving long-term results. In the case of injectables like botulinum toxin, peptides such as argireline enhance muscle relaxation and help maintain smoother skin between treatments.
For those who get skin boosters and treatments targeting collagen production, Dr Ashley explains that peptides can also be a solid choice for afterwards. “These treatments work by stimulating collagen production and improving skin hydration, and peptides help to extend and enhance those results by continuing to support collagen synthesis and repair.”
She concludes: “Using peptides post-procedure can also help to reinforce the skin barrier, speed up healing, and reduce inflammation, ensuring that the skin maintains its youthful, plump, and healthy appearance for longer.”