Single active products burst onto the beauty scene a while back, and had us all donning skincare formulator hats as we layered numerous serums to combat a range of concerns.
 
While at first it seemed like a great idea to be able to truly customise our skincare and address concerns as and when they arose, it didn’t take long for many to fall foul of this DIY trend. Layer the wrong actives and one or both may well become ineffective—like in the case of retinol and vitamin C—while layering an AHA or BHA with niacinamide can cause major redness to ensue.

So, now we’re seeing the resurgence of multi-tasking products formulated by the pros and are ditching those lengthy 10-step routines. But what steps and products are worth keeping, and what should you shelve? We asked the Experts.

Dr Joney de Souza, Aesthetic Doctor & Founder, Dr Joney De Souza Skin & Laser Clinic

Keep: Retinol
Retinol is a powerhouse ingredient that increases skin cell turnover, unclogs pores, and stimulates collagen production. The result? Smoother, plumper skin with fewer fine lines and a brighter complexion.

Ditch: Rich moisturisers
Heavy moisturisers can clog pores, slow skin turnover, and leave you with a dull complexion. Instead, opt for lightweight, hydrating formulas that support skin renewal and hydration without suffocating it.

Anna Hemming, Aesthetic Doctor & Founder, Thames Skin Clinic 

Keep: Anti-inflammatory skincare
ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense is one of my go-to multi-tasking serums. It protects the skin barrier and mends the cell walls to contain inflammatory markers. Acne, eczema and psoriasis are well known inflammatory conditions, but inflammation over a long period of time can cause dehydration, sagging, pigmentation, lines and wrinkles. This makes anti-inflammatory skincare a must!

Ditch: Time-consuming products
On busy days, I really don’t have the time to wait for multiple products to sink into my skin and start working, before I can apply the next layer. So, I’d say ditch anything that is going to make you wait longer than a couple of minutes, so you can get your skincare routine done and leave the house in a timely manner. Keep anything that needs extra time to a weekly treatment.

Anna Baker, Aesthetic Nurse & Founder, Anna Baker Skin Clinic

Keep: Double cleansing
I recommend a cleansing balm as an initial first step, as this type of cleanser emulsifies and gently softens any products on the skin surface, from SPF to make-up, removing them more effectively while conditioning the skin barrier. This can then be followed by a cleanser that’s tailored to your individual skin concerns.

Ditch: Over-exfoliating
Generally, we should be exfoliating the skin once or twice a week, but I’m noticing that many people are overdoing it. Often times they don’t realise that many of the products that they are layering on top of one another have exfoliating actives, and the overuse of exfoliating acids and physical exfoliants leads to redness, irritation, dryness, flaking, breakouts, increased sensitivity, and changes in skin texture.

Dr. Raquel Amado, Director & Medical Practitioner, Skin and Medical Cosmetics

Keep: Mineral SPF
Mineral sunscreens, especially those with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, offer broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays. They're non-irritating, suitable for all skin types (even sensitive or acne-prone), and provide a physical barrier against the sun, making them essential in any routine. Mineral SPF also helps prevent premature ageing, which is a key concern when simplifying a regimen.

Ditch: Fragrance

Synthetic fragrances (and sometimes natural ones too) can trigger skin irritation, redness, and allergic reactions, especially when used on sensitive skin. They have absolutely no skincare benefits and can even induce acne, and compromise the skin barrier. Not to mention many fragrances contain undisclosed chemicals that could disrupt hormones and cause long-term damage. So, start reading those ingredients lists and try to avoid fragrance-laced skincare. 

Dr Bhavjit Kaur, Aesthetic Doctor and Medical Director

Keep: Exfoliating acids
Gentle chemical exfoliants like AHAs (glycolic/lactic acid) or BHAs (salicylic acid) dissolve dead skin without causing trauma. Removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin keeps it smooth textured and unclogs pores, too. Not only that, but they help improve the absorption of skincare products, potentially stimulating more collagen production for a brighter, smoother, more youthful appearance. What’s not to love!

Ditch: Cleansing with cold water
Cold water on the face activates the parasympathetic system, slowing heart rate and lowering blood pressure which can cause dizziness. There are also other drawbacks to using cold water on your face: since cold water tightens your pores, it can trap make-up, bacteria and debris, preventing a thorough cleanse. So, avoid washing your face with very cold water, especially if you're prone to dizziness or fainting, and opt for lukewarm water instead.  

Corina Mihalache, Aesthetician & Founder, Ace Skin Health Clinic

Keep: Hydrating serums 
Skincare buys containing hyaluronic acid, squalane and ceramides benefit everyone, as these ingredients combat water loss to help strengthen the skin barrier. Hydrated skin is more resilient, heals better and is less prone to irritation, sensitivity or breakouts.

Ditch: Sulphates
Sulphates are chemical compounds that are used in many skincare products to cleanse the skin and create a lather. However, they can remove part of the protective skin barrier naturally present on our skin and scalp. This can lead to major irritation of the skin, dryness, itchiness, redness, flakiness, increased sensitivity to products, and breakouts. Using sulphates can also leave skin unable to retain moisture and protect itself from environmental aggressors like pollution and UV rays. As a result, skin can become wrinkled, pigmented, rough and dull in appearance.