By Karen Heath
We’ve all seen them on TikTok, Instagram and the like—the elaborate 10-to-15 step skincare routines promising ‘glass skin’ to anyone willing to spend half an hour slathering their face with serums, essences, primers, lotions and moisturisers.It’s mesmerising to watch of course, but it’s had many of us convinced that more equals better. Skincare can feel overwhelming at the best of times, with so many ‘different’ ingredients we’re told are essential in our daily routine, whether it’s hyaluronic acid for hydration, retinol for anti-ageing, vitamin C for brightening or SPF for protection. As a result, many of us feel lost in the shuffle, or worse, that we’re underperforming if we fail to keep up.
However, the good news is that according to most skincare experts, piling on product after product isn’t the fast-track to perfect skin. If anything, a simplified, carefully chosen routine often serves our skin far better than an over-engineered one.
What is product layering?
As the name suggests, it’s applying multiple skincare products one after the other, with the hope that the combined effect will deliver maximum results. So, should we layer? There’re a few reasons to take a more measured approach:- Your skin is a barrier—and an excellent one. “Layering products doesn’t really make sense when you think about it,” says Dr Clare Kiely, Consultant Dermatologist and Co-Founder, The Skin Diary. “The main job of your skin is to keep you in and the environment out. Your stratum corneum does a really good job at that, it’s like bricks and mortar.” This is why getting ingredients to penetrate into the skin is one of the biggest challenges that formulators face. “By layering on products, you’re probably just layering things that you’re eventually going to wash off,” she continues. A single well-formulated product that supports the skin in several ways is usually far more effective than four separate serums jostling for space.
- Redness, dryness, stinging and even conditions like perioral dermatitis can all be triggered by overloading the skin with too many products at once, especially if they contain active ingredients. This particularly applies to our favourite hardworking actives such as retinoids, skincare acids (such as salicylic, glycolic or lactic acid), vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and even seemingly gentle ingredients like niacinamide when used at high strengths or in multiple formulas. When stacked together these can easily tip the skin from ‘glowy’ to irritated.
- The expense! A multi step routine adds up fast. Unless each product is doing something genuinely useful, you’ll be spending more for the same—or even worse—results. “Putting layers and layers of products on top of each other is not going to be beneficial,” says Dr Kiely.
When does layering make sense?
This isn’t to say you should avoid layering altogether. A well-structured routine can absolutely involve more than one product. For example, using an antioxidant serum in the morning, followed by a moisturiser and then SPF, is both sensible and beneficial.SPF always goes on last in the morning, after your moisturiser and before make-up—think of it as a protective topcoat. Even better if it’s tinted or moisturising, meaning that’s one less layer to worry about.
In the evening, cleanse skin, then apply a retinoid or other treatment product, followed by a night cream or serum.
What’s the best way to layer?
A straightforward approach is best: a good skincare regime aims to prep, treat and seal.- Patience pays off! It’s not always easy but allowing your products to sink in for about 30 seconds to one minute before moving to the next step will minimise the risk of pilling—that annoying flaking or rolling-off of product.
- Actives such as vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide and exfoliating acids are the heavy hitters in your routine. For maximum effect, apply these treatments directly to clean skin. The direct contact allows the ingredients to work their magic without dilution or interference.
- Don’t mix incompatible ingredients: some skincare ingredients simply don’t play well together. This particularly applies to actives, for example, combining vitamin C or exfoliating acids can cause irritation or reduce their effectiveness. The best way to avoid this is to either alternate actives between your morning and evening routines or on different days. Knowing which ingredients to pair (and which to keep apart) is the key to happy, healthy skin.
When it comes to layering, less really can be more. A streamlined routine saves time, money and, most importantly, helps your skin to function at its best.
If you’d like a routine designed specifically for your skin—with clarity about which products are best for your skin, how much to use and in what order—it’s always worth seeking expert, personalised advice from a skin specialist or aesthetic practitioner.
