There’s very little that differentiates us as human beings despite our various skin tones, however, when it comes to complexion maintenance, there are a few physiological differences that those with skin of colour should take heed of.
 
These include a thicker epidermis, a higher number of sebaceous glands, a low level of ceramides, and an increased risk of over producing melanin when injured or inflamed. All of these issues lead to concerns such as hyperpigmentation, dehydration, sensitivity and acne. So, to avoid these bugbears it’s wise to invest in some of our favourite skincare actives and ingredients…

Niacinamide

Quite frankly, what’s not to love about this multi-tasking powerhouse? A form of vitamin B3, niacinamide targets hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production to help even out the skin tone, which is especially helpful for those with skin of colour. Not only that, it strengthens the skin barrier, which is generally more compromised in Black skin, which contains the lowest level of barrier-protecting ceramides when compared with other skin tones. And if that wasn’t all, niacinamide reduces sebum production which is ideal for acne-prone skin, and it also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it a must-have for quelling post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and calming sensitive skin.

Hyaluronic acid

Like a glass of water for your skin, hyaluronic acid or HA, draws in moisture, leaving skin plump and radiant. However, since darker skin tones can have an issue keeping their skin barrier healthy, water loss tends to be one of Black and Brown skin's biggest gripes. This makes hyaluronic acid a must, and it should be used daily to restore moisture levels and ward off dehydration-induced ashiness.

Azelaic acid

We love a skincare ingredient that covers a ton of bases, and azelaic acid does just that. Naturally occurring in our own skin, but also found in grains like wheat, rye and barley, this dicarboxylic acid has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. The former means it’s able to kill acne-causing bacteria, while the latter allows it to calm the skin and ward off redness and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. And to further aid in keeping your skin tone uniform, azelaic acid also has melanin inhibiting properties to help reduce the amount of pigment produced post acne or due to skin trauma.

Ceramides

Studies have shown that Black skin has the lowest number of ceramides found in its skin barrier. These lipid molecules which are found naturally in the skin are vital when it comes to keeping it well hydrated, as they lock in moisture and protect the skin form environmental aggressors such as dirt, pollution and UV. Without a decent number of ceramides, water loss is inevitable which leads to a dull, dehydrated complexion. And even if you regularly top up your moisture levels with hyaluronic acid, if your barrier is compromised, HA won’t be as effective over time. Opt for facial (and body) moisturisers containing ceramides to replenish your stores and ensure your skin barrier is as strong and protective as possible.

SPF

Yes, melanin-rich skin has more natural sun protection than its white counterpart, but that doesn’t mean sunscreen should be skipped. While it may take longer to notice the effects of prolonged and unprotected sun exposure, notice it you will (eventually). Collagen loss which leads to sagging, lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and skin cancer are all very real risks. Seek out clear sunscreen formulations to avoid ashiness, ensure all areas exposed to the elements are treated, wear at least SPF 30, and don’t forget to reapply every two hours.

Aloe vera

Darker skin tones are often thought to be more robust, which is a major misconception that’s likely doing your skin more harm than good. In fact, it can be highly sensitive, especially if you’re not paying attention to the health of your skin barrier. Cue aloe vera, a plant with a healing gel that soothes, calms, moisturises and promotes wound healing, so you can wave goodbye to sensitive skin. While you can purchase a plant and squeeze out the gel when needed, to ensure your skin is in tip top condition 24/7, it’s best to ensure that aloe vera is included within your daily skincare formulas.