With the UK sitting firmly in the top five countries that produce the most revenue from the skincare market globally, it’s fair to say we take skin seriously. And with more resources than ever, we’ve become a nation of switched-on, savvy consumers. That said, it can be difficult to keep up with constantly evolving ‘trends,’ and beauty buzzwords.

For this reason, we spoke with three Etre Vous Experts to discover which five skincare ingredients are going to be front and centre in 2025. These really do represent the next generation of smart skincare, so know that an investment in these will be a safe one for your skin.

Bisabolol 

Given that the UK is currently known as the world-leader in skincare launches targeting the microbiome, it comes as little surprise that calming, soothing ingredients to aid skin barrier health will continue to be huge this coming year. One such ingredient is Bisabolol, which is currently a trending buzzword amongst skincare enthusiasts. “With consumers increasingly looking for gentler, more natural solutions in skincare, Bisabolol’s soothing properties are a huge draw, particularly in sensitive skin products or formulations aimed at calming inflammation (e.g. post-sun exposure or acne treatments),” says Aesthetic Doctor Dr Raquel Amado.

But what exactly does this kind-to-skin ingredient do? Cosmetic Doctor Dr Emmaline Ashley explains: “Bisabolol is a gentle alcohol derived from chamomile or created synthetically. It’s known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, and is amazing at calming irritated skin and reducing redness.” It is therefore a new go-to for anyone who experiences redness, sensitivity and irritation, and can be found most commonly in serums and creams.

Ectoin

Another ingredient that saw success in 2024 and isn’t going anywhere anytime soon, is Ectoin, the protectant that saves skin from the elements. “Ectoin is a naturally occurring molecule, known as extremolytes,” says Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, GP and award-winning Aesthetician. “It is derived from microorganisms that live in extreme temperatures and harsh environments, such as deserts. On a cellular level, adding these to skincare can help with hydration, inflammation and protection of the skin.”

Dr Ashley adds: “It essentially forms a hydration shell around cells to protect them from damage.” She believes Ectoin continues to trend in line with our increased awareness and understanding of how the environment (think pollution, UV radiation and other stressors that can impact the delicate skin barrier) can affect the health and appearance of skin. “Its ability to shield and repair the skin makes it a standout ingredient,” she adds. Find it in serums and moisturising creams.

Glycogen

With our ongoing fascination with regenerative skincare and beauty in general, experts predict that Glycogen will take centre stage in 2025. This skin-energising ingredient is a naturally occurring entity in the body, explains Dr Amado: “Glycogen is a polysaccharide (a form of carbohydrate) that acts as an energy reserve in the body. It’s stored in the liver and muscles and is broken down into glucose to provide energy.” In skincare however, it has a unique role – and a long list of benefits. “Glycogen helps to replenish moisture, improve hydration levels, and boost the skin’s overall vitality,” Dr Amado continues. “It can also help to maintain the skin's natural barrier and promote skin regeneration.”

Dr Ashley explains that early research suggests the ingredient can increase cell turnover, while Dr El Muntasar also notes that it can aid in collagen and elastin production, making it a key player in anti-ageing.

Fermented ingredients 

Another trend that speaks to our love of microbiome-boosting skincare, fermentation is looking set to be unstoppable in 2025. “With the fact that a lot of people are becoming more familiar with fermented ingredients for gut health, I think fermented ingredients for skin health are likely to be the next trend,” notes Dr El Muntasar. “Fermentation has been a staple in Asian skincare for years, and its global popularity is surging due to its ability to deliver potent results while being gentle on the skin,” adds Dr Ashley.

Fermentation is—as we are likely aware—a real process, but one that allows us to reap rewards in our skincare routine. “Fermented ingredients are created through the breakdown of natural compounds by microorganisms like bacteria, yeast, or fungi,” explains Dr Ashley. “They take complex compounds and turn them into simpler, more easily absorbed molecules. This can potentially increase the potency of the ingredients themselves, but also produce lots of beneficial byproducts like antioxidants and peptides.”

One such notable example is Dihydrokaempferol, which is a flavonoid compound found in some plants and “often used in the context of fermented ingredients,” according to Dr Amado. Due to its potent antioxidant properties, “Dihydrokaempferol helps to neutralise free radicals, which can cause oxidative stress and accelerate the ageing process of skin.” She notes it also has brightening and anti-ageing benefits.

Propolis 

A last, special mention has to go to Propolis, which Dr Ashley points to as one of her standout ingredients for the current new year, and when you hear its long list of benefits, that will come as no surprise. Not only is Propolis antibacterial and antimicrobial, it also has antiviral, antifungal and antioxidant properties.

Dr Ashley explains: “A resin-like substance produced by bees, and a mixture of plant resins, beeswax, bee enzymes and other organic compounds, this ingredient has been a staple in a lot of popular K-beauty brands for years.” Perfect for sensitive or acne-prone skin types, Propolis floods the skin with vitamins and amino acids, aids in collagen production, boosts elasticity and helps with hydration—in short, it’s a brilliant all-rounder. Look to your favourite K-beauty brands to find a hefty dose of the ingredient.