Cleansing might seem like the most functional and least interesting part of your skincare regime, but choosing the right cleanser is essential for maintaining healthy skin.

“Cleansing removes makeup, daily grime, bacteria and environmental pollutants,” says EV Expert Dr Anna Hemming, Thames Skin Clinic. “If you don’t cleanse properly, this can lead to a build-up of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, causing a dull, flat-looking complexion.  Cleansing also helps to remove impurities and prevent clogged pores which can trigger breakouts and aggravate skin problems.”

Hemming recommends cleansing twice a day, morning and evening.  “If you have problem, acne prone skin, keeping pores clear of debris and bacteria will help to stop your condition from getting worse. Cleansing also prepares the skin before a treatment, enabling other ingredients to work more effectively.”  

Hemming’s golden rule is to choose a cleanser formulated to suit your skin type and concerns. “It’s amazing what using the right product can do—ee regularly see people who experience positive changes within weeks, simply by switching to a more appropriate cleanser.”

Cleansers in brief

• Balms: These may be trending right now but get the thumbs down from Hemming. Many of these are fairly solid and melt into an oil; they do not remove dead skin cells or impurities effectively.
• Oil-based cleansers: These tend to sit on the surface of the skin and do not go deep enough. So, while they can remove makeup and sunscreen, they do not remove dirt, toxins or dead skin cells. They can also aggravate acne and other skin conditions.
• Water-based cleansers. These contain water and are effective at removing water soluble particles such as dirt, grime and sweat. 
• Creams/lotions/gels. All good choices but it’s the ingredients that count. Always look at what’s in it—what do you hope to achieve? Gels should lather up nicely and are a good choice for oily/acne prone skins. Creams and lotions are good for all skin types. There’s no point using cleansers with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or antioxidants, as these will be cleansed away.
• Micellar water: Infused with tiny particles (micelles) that soak up dirt, oil and water, use to remove makeup before following up with a deeper acting cleanser.
• Face washes: These are water based and designed to remove surface oil and dirt from the skin. Look at added ingredients, eg: salicylic acid, for specific needs (eg: acne).
• Face cloths: A no-no. These wipe off makeup, but ultimately tend to just smear things around. 

The double cleanse debate

You don't need to double cleanse all the time—for example, when you wake up in the morning, one cleanse is generally enough.  But, if you’ve been wearing makeup, a sunscreen, or your face is feeling especially grimy, it’s important to double cleanse.  “The first step is to remove all traces of makeup or sunscreen,” says Hemming. “I’m always amazed how often I have to cleanse someone’s face from residual makeup when they come in for a treatment.  Makeup is the dirtiest thing we routinely put on our faces, so it makes sense you spend enough time taking it off.” She recommends micellar water as a first step, followed by a product that cleanses more deeply and suits your skin type.

Skin types decoded

Dry, dehydrated skin
Very few people have naturally dry skin, according to Hemming.  “Far more common is ‘lazy skin syndrome’,  she says. “When there is a build-up of dead skin cells, the skin fractures (forming tiny micro channels), so all the nourishment and moisture from inside floods outwards—this creates a false impression of dry skin.”  There may also be dullness, congestion, frequent breakouts and fine lines.  “Using the right cleanser to remove dead skin cells, will help to bring the skin back into balance and restore natural moisture.” Choosing cleansers formulated with AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) such as glycolic and lactic acids, will remove impurities and exfoliate dead skin cells, allowing skin to replenish and renew itself.  If you have true dry skin, Hemming recommends a gentle, hydrating milky or cream cleanser.  

Sensitive, reactive, and rosacea prone skin
Sensitive skin may be genetic, especially if you’ve got naturally thin, fragile, fair skin.  You may be sensitive to certain ingredients (eg: alcohol, fragrance), or, there may be an underlying reason (eg: allergy).  “I always recommend a professional assessment with a practitioner,” says Hemming.  “Cleansing is only the first step into a complete skincare programme. Skin may also become sensitive due to a build-up of dead skin cells. A tailored skincare programme using gentle yet effective ingredients (eg: AHAs) can make all the difference. I would also advise having an in-clinic consultation to help manage rosacea.”

Acne prone skin
“If you have acne prone skin, chose a cleanser that contains BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) such as salicylic acid. BHAs are oil soluble, which means they can penetrate and dissolve the oil in the pores, preventing a build-up which can trigger acne. These can also be combined with (water soluble) AHAs, to exfoliate and remove dead skin cells.

Oily and combination skin
“The majority of people have oily skin,” says Hemming. “This also includes anyone who has large pores, congestion or rosacea, even if skin doesn’t feel oily. So, generally most people can tolerate products that take away oils. Removing dead skin cells will also support and promote healthy skin renewal. Oily skins are more prone to acne as the oil can clog up pores, causing bacteria to thrive.  Cleansers that contain oil soluble BHAs can be very effective.”

In clinic treatments

HydraFacial Platinum
Theis gold standard HydraFacial treatment combines six steps tailored to individual needs, including lymphatic drainage; a mild peel to remove dead skin cells; extraction and cleanse; customised serum; LED light therapy to calm inflammation and congestion, and hydration.

Professional treatment plan
This involves undergoing a consultation and assessment of your skin type. You'll then be prescribed with skincare—including the correct cleanser—for your specific needs.  Your skin will be re-evaluated six-to-eight weeks later.

Cosmecutis Clear Skin Facial
This detoxifying and purifying facial is designed to treat, acne, blemished and breakout-prone skin. It includes a double cleanse, exfoliation and a deep pore cleansing treatment, followed by an oxygen face mask activated by low level electrical currents, to eradicate bacteria and heal the skin. Next, cooling metal rollers are used to calm, soothe and hydrate. To finish, LED light calms inflammation and redness.