Winter time comes with a whole host of beauty dilemmas, and sore, cracked lips usually top the list. But with plenty of misinformation around, it often feels like restoring lips to their healthy, moisturised selves is a hopeless venture. Here, the experts prove that’s far from the truth.

What can cause dry lips in winter?

There are plenty of contributing factors that lead to dry lips, especially in the cold winter period. We all know what it’s like to want to throw on a huge scarf to hide cracked, sore lips that need some help! Some causes such as dehydration, are well-known, but there are plenty of other things you may not have considered yet.

For example, the skin’s moisture barrier is essential for preventing dry lips. As with the skin on our face, a compromised barrier around the lips can lead to water loss and thus, dehydration. Unfortunately too, lips are naturally more prone to this: “The skin on our lips is much thinner than on the rest of our face and body, and lacks the natural oils that provide a barrier,” says Aesthetic Doctor, Dr Christine Hall.

Environmental stressors are also key culprits. “Cold, windy weather and indoor heating draw moisture away from the lips, which naturally lack oil glands and often dehydrate quickly,” comments Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Aiza Jamil. Habitual lip licking, she adds, also makes the problem worse, as “saliva evaporates fast, leaving the skin even more parched.” And amidst certain skincare habits—including strong retinoids or the overuse of too many actives—dry lips become seemingly inevitable.  

Who is most prone to dryness?

Often, it feels as though some of us are simply destined to have dry lips forever; certainly, many appear to be more prone than others. As mentioned, if you use plenty of actives in your skincare routine, you may find yourself naturally more likely to experience barrier issues and thus, dryness. If you’re a lip licker, use the ‘wrong’ kind of lip products (more on this later) or don’t drink enough water, you may also be a prime candidate. “Vitamin deficiencies, underlying allergies and some medications can all increase the tendency towards lip irritation and dryness,” concludes Dr Jamil.

Preventative measures to take

There are plenty of treatments out there for dry lips, but as with many things, prevention is often just as effective (if not more) than treating symptoms. Prevention is primarily about ensuring you are maintaining (or building back up) the skin’s moisture barrier around the lips. This means dryness and dehydration will be less frequent, and less likely to present in chapped, cracked skin. Using the right products is essential.

Dr Jamil also recommends “staying well hydrated, avoiding lip licking and switching to gentler toothpaste formulas,” while Dermatology Expert Dr Naomi Mackle advises staying well hydrated, avoiding menthol-based or fragranced lip products, and gently exfoliating the lips once or twice a week, either with a soft cloth or a gentle polish designed specifically for this area.

Treatment: what really works 

You can’t really treat or heal dry winter lips without topical products, but selecting the right kinds of products is essential. In fact, using the wrong ones can only exacerbate the problem. First, look to ingredients—Dr Hall advocates for nourishing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or shea butter, and Dr Mackle recommends investing in a “thick overnight lip treatment,” as “this is when the skin repairs most effectively.” For daytime, stick to something that has SPF 50+, “as sun exposure significantly worsens dehydration, collagen breakdown, and premature ageing in this area,” she adds. Avoid anything heavily fragranced, or that is menthol-based.

A combination of these products with certain lifestyle habits will work best to counter dry lips. “Hydration is key, along with reducing smoking, limiting lip licking, and protecting lips from temperature extremes,” says Dr Mackle.

However, if these approaches don’t work, it may be time to try something more targeted. A dermatologist, for example, can determine whether eczema, perioral dermatitis or nutritional factors are playing a part, and guide you in terms of a treatment plan specific to your needs.

In-clinic options

Aesthetic options also include skin peels, which “can be extremely effective for dry, flaky lips, as they gently remove built-up dead skin cells and allow hydration products to penetrate properly again,” comments Mackle.

And then there’s the treatment often dubbed ‘injectable lip balm.’ Usually made up of hydrating skin boosters, these injections into the lips “are fantastic for restoring moisture and volume,” says Dr Hall. “They not only plump the lips but also hydrate from within, offering a longer-lasting solution for those struggling with persistent dryness or cracking.”

Whichever is your preference, it’s important to speak to a qualified aesthetic practitioner to discover the right plan for you.