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Vitamin C alternatives to rev up your regimen

Skin unable to handle the transformative power of vitamin C? Try one of these expert-approved alternatives instead

Vitamin C is one of the most talked-about skincare ingredients of our time. Known to target hyperpigmentation and dullness, and protect against environmental stress, it has become an essential skincare routine go-to.

But as much as we love vitamin C, sometimes it simply does not love us back. If you’ve always struggled with the ingredient, you have options.

⁠Why some people can't tolerate vitamin C

As an active ingredient, vitamin C is sometimes difficult to tolerate for those with sensitive skin. This means it may cause the skin to become irritated, inflamed or generally unhappy, rather than boosting it and providing known benefits such as evening out pigmentation, brightening dullness and protecting the skin from things like pollution (which causes damaging oxidative stress). So why does this happen? It’s actually all down to the pH of this strong antioxidant.

“Vitamin C in its active form (L-ascorbic acid), is water-soluble and highly acidic, with a pH of around 3.5,” says Dr David Jack, Medical Doctor and leading skin specialist. “While this acidity is important for its effectiveness, it can disrupt the skin's natural pH balance (normally between 4.5-5.5), leading to irritation in those with sensitive or compromised skin.”

Dr Jack continues: “High concentrations of ascorbic acid [around 15-30 per cent] can also trigger oxidative stress [forming irritating oxalic acid, for example] rather than preventing it, especially if the formulation is unstable or exposed to light and air. The skin barrier in sensitive individuals is often already weakened, making it less capable of handling this acidity, which can result in redness, stinging, or peeling.”

If you struggle with vitamin C but are seeking similar benefits and results to what the ingredient offers, try one of the following instead:

Niacinamide

Otherwise known as vitamin B3, niacinamide continues to be a buzzy skincare ingredient. This is perhaps in part because it offers similar results to vitamin C, but is easier for skin to cope with on the whole. “Unlike vitamin C, niacinamide is non-acidic and generally well tolerated by sensitive skin,” explains EV Expert and Aesthetic Doctor Dr Raquel Amado.

Like vitamin C, the ingredient targets everything from dullness to uneven skin tone, making it a “multitasking superstar,” Dr Amado continues. “It brightens, reduces inflammation, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves the skin's tone.”

You can use niacinamide in a serum for the most targeted approach; you'll also find it in a number of moisturisers and other hydrators.  

Azelaic acid

Beloved by the experts, azelaic acid is another go-to vitamin C alternative. “It is anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and mildly exfoliating— I find most of my patients tolerate it well twice a day,” notes EV Expert, GP and award winning Aesthetician, Dr Ahmed El Muntasar.

Also mentioned by Dr Jack, this ingredient is derived from grains including barley and wheat, and is an antioxidant like vitamin C. “It is very effective at reducing redness and irritation—it’s even used at prescription strengths as a treatment for rosacea—and brightening the skin,” he explains. “It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin production, helping to lighten pigmentation and even out skin tone.”

You can find azelaic acid most often in serum formulations.

Green tea extract

If you feel as though you’re missing out on vitamin C’s environmental protection element, there is an alternative you can turn to for a similar benefit: green tea extract. Vitamin C is known to be a great protectant against environmental aggressors such as pollution, which causes the skin to experience oxidative stress and breaks down collagen, resulting in long term damage, both superficially and more deeply.

“Green tea extract contains polyphenols, which help protect your skin from damage caused by the environment,” says Cosmetic Doctor and Dermatology Expert Dr Sonia Khorana, meaning you can give it a try if vitamin C isn’t working for you. The ingredient also has anti-inflammatory and soothing factors, and also helps to target acne and regulate oil production.

Green tea extract is commonly found in Korean skincare products such as essences and creams.

Resveratrol 

A favourite amongst the experts, this is one of the most recognised vitamin C alternatives. Dr Jack explains that this ingredient is “a plant polyphenol derived from plants like grapes and Japanese knotweed,” which “has exceptionally strong antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental aggressors such as UV rays and pollution.”

In addition to its environmental protection, resveratrol “has anti-inflammatory effects, which can reduce redness and calm sensitive skin.” And finally, it also “has important effects on mitochondrial function in cells (the energy powerhouses), which is increasingly recognised as a fundamental factor in cellular ageing.”

For those with sensitivity, Dr Jack notes this is a great option: “Unlike L-ascorbic acid [vitamin C], resveratrol is non-acidic and does not disrupt the skin's pH, making it a good choice for patients prone to irritation or inflammation.”

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