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The friend and foe ingredients for your hair

An expert reveals the ingredients that are compatible with the hair and scalp, and warns of the ones to avoid

When we think of skincare, we may think of ingredients like vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and retinol, but are these also good for our hair? Are there certain ingredients that are great for our scalp, but risk triggering acne and breakouts when used on our skin?

"Some ingredients may be beneficial for both your hair and skin, but some should be kept to one and not the other," says Clinic Lead at Face the Future, Kimberley Medd. "Both our skin and hair resilience can be influenced by lifestyle, genetics, hormones and diet, but the ingredients used can also transform your desired results."

Below are some versatile ingredients you can safely use for both your hair and skin:

Coconut oil 

A brilliant ingredient, coconut oil helps to reinforce the skin's natural defensive barrier to better retain moisture. This hydrating and nourishing ingredient is a great moisturiser, helping with skin and hair dryness, hair frizz and scalp health. Coconut oil may help reduce skin inflammation, counteract free radical damage, reduce dark spots and facial redness, and help with evening out skin tone.

Aloe vera 

Aloe vera is a go-to for post-sun skin, helping to calm irritation while also offering hydration for dry skin. It also helps to hydrate the scalp, reduce dandruff and promote hair growth. Aloe vera has enzymes that help to break down fats and strip the hair of any extra oil, so for oily scalps, it can be used to help balance sebum levels. The amino acids in aloe vera also support brittle or dry hair, making it softer.

Hyaluronic acid

Known as the ultimate skin hydrator, hyaluronic acid can also be great to lock in moisture to the hair, preventing dryness and frizz. Increasing the moisture content may help to plump up the hair's volume, creating a fuller appearance and reducing the appearance of limp, flat hair. Hyaluronic acid can be used as an essential for healthy hair growth, as it helps to balance moisture levels on the scalp and prevents inflammation and flaky skin, so that hair can grow in a healthy environment. Regular use of hyaluronic acid may help improve hair's overall texture, creating smoother, glossier strands.

Vitamin C 

Vitamin C is a staple in many skincare routines, with benefits including collagen boosting, reducing hyperpigmentation, brightening, and minimising wrinkles and fine lines. Vitamin C may also be beneficial for the hair, helping with the production of collagen which is vital for hair growth. Collagen helps to strengthen the follicles and can promote healthier, thicker hair. It may also help to soothe the scalp, reduce dandruff and keep the hair clean thanks to antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. As an antioxidant, this powerhouse ingredient can also protect the hair's health and colour fade, due to free radical damage caused by UV rays, pollution and environmental stressors. Vitamin C helps to balance the scalp's natural oils, preventing the hair from becoming too oily or dry, and keeping it looking shiny and vibrant.

Honey 

Honey is a natural humectant, meaning it draws moisture into the skin and hair. It's also an emollient, offering benefits as a smoothing agent, a deep conditioning hair mask, and keeping skin hydrated and soft. Honey is naturally antibacterial and speeds up your skin cells' healing processes, meaning it has properties to help with reducing bacteria and supporting wound healing.

AHAs 

Alpha hydroxy acids are primarily known for their skin benefits, but they can also be helpful for your hair and scalp. AHAs can help to gently exfoliate the scalp, and remove dead skin cells, product buildup and excess oils. This can help prevent clogged hair follicles, which may contribute to dandruff or scalp irritation. AHAs have moisturising properties, helping to attract water to the hair and scalp, working to improve hydration and minimise dry, frizzy hair. AHAs can be great for overall scalp care, promoting the renewal of skin cells, leading to improved texture and strength over time.

Ceramides

Ceramides are popular in skincare, however these lipids can be found in the hair as well as the skin, with their role being to maintain moisture and strengthen the hair cells. When used on the hair, ceramides can help maintain moisture retention and support the hair's natural structure, making it less prone to breakage.

Niacinamide 

Vitamin B3, also known as niacin, is a powerhouse ingredient with several benefits not just for skin, but also your hair. Niacinamide can help boost blood flow to the scalp, encouraging healthy hair follicles and good circulation—key for nourishing hair and receiving the nutrients it needs. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, which may soothe irritation and an inflamed scalp. This non-irritating, gentle ingredient can also be used in scalp treatments and leave-in products.

The not-so friendly ingredients...

Salicylic acid

"There are some ingredients that are good for skin and bad for the hair such as salicylic acid, a popular exfoliant for acne-prone skin," says Medd. "Salicylic acid can help with dandruff in small amounts, however, overuse can cause scalp dryness and irritation, leading to weakened hair.

Retinoids/retinol 

"These are great for stimulating collagen and treating concerns such as fine lines and wrinkles," shares Medd. However, retinol can cause scalp dryness, flakiness, and may lead to hair shedding and thinning if applied directly to the scalp."

Oils and silicones

"Certain scalp products may trigger acne, known as acne mechanica, particularly if you have sensitive skin," Medd continues. "Using conditioners or leave-in treatments that are too heavy or contain a high number of oils and silicones may clog pores, particularly around the forehead and hairline, leading to acne breakouts. If you notice hairline breakouts, it may be helpful to avoid those ingredients and look for lighter, non-comedogenic alternatives. "

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