From the soft make-up ruling the catwalks this season, to the surge in C02 laser treatments seen throughout 2025, it’s clear that skin is in. The new goal is not to hide your concerns, but to improve how the skin behaves, so that you don’t have to reach for concealing foundation.

We asked two Etre Vous Experts to break down the skincare ingredients that matter most if you want to rely less on make-up: Advanced Aesthetician and Ace Skin Clinic Founder, Corina Mihalache, talks us through the best actives for acne-prone, hyperpigmented and uneven textured skin, while Aesthetic Nurse and Anna Baker Skin Clinic Founder, Anna Baker, reveals what to shop for if your concerns are redness, dullness or lines and wrinkles…

Acne-prone skin

“Acne-prone skin is more likely to develop blackheads, whiteheads and inflamed breakouts. It’s not just a teenage issue—adult acne is very common too, and I see it all the time in clinic. Acne develops when oil production increases, dead skin cells do not shed efficiently, and pores becomes blocked. Once the follicle is congested, inflammation increases and bacteria such as C. acnes can thrive. Hormonal shifts, stress, friction, comedogenic (aka pore blocking) products and a compromised skin barrier can all worsen acne. Trying to “dry out” acne often backfires, because dehydrated skin becomes more reactive and may produce more oil. Heavy or poorly removed make-up can also contribute to congestion, which is why keeping pores clear, calming inflammation and maintaining hydration is key to sporting an acne free complexion." CM

Try: Retinoids

"These vitamin A derivatives are where you get the long-term change. They normalise cell turnover, so pores clog less, and they also help with post-breakout marks and early textural scarring. If you are thinking of make-up free skin, retinoids are among the most transformative ingredients because they teach the skin to behave better."

Try: Salicylic acid

"This is my preferred active ingredient for congestion. It’s oil-soluble, so it can penetrate the pore lining and help dissolve build-up from within. It’s also particularly effective for blackheads, whiteheads, and rough, bumpy, “blocked pore” texture."

Try: Niacinamide

"I use niacinamide frequently because it supports the skin barrier, helps regulate oil, reduces redness, and can improve the appearance of enlarged pores over time. When the barrier is strong, the skin tends to break out less and recover more quickly."

Try: Hyaluronic acid

"I always include hydration support, as acne-prone skin still needs water to function properly and maintain its glow. Hyaluronic acid is a good example, as it helps the skin retain water without clogging pores. Dehydrated skin often becomes more inflamed and may overcompensate by producing more oil, so hydration is essential."

Hyperpigmented skin

"Hyperpigmentation occurs when areas of skin become darker than your natural baseline. It may appear as post-acne marks, sun spots, melasma or uneven patches that make the complexion look less uniform, and it is one of the main reasons people feel they need concealer and foundation. Pigmentation occurs because pigment-producing cells respond to triggers—the most common trigger being UV exposure—but inflammation is equally important. Picking, harsh exfoliation, irritation, hormonal changes, heat and visible light all keep pigment production active. In Black and brown skin, pigmentation develops more easily and fades more slowly, which is why a careful, anti-inflammatory approach is important. To go make-up free, we do not just fade existing pigment; we also need to control how the skin is triggered to produce it." CM

Try: Tranexamic acid 

"This is one of my top choices for stubborn pigmentation because it helps interrupt the signalling pathways that drive excess melanin production, and it is often well tolerated. It is particularly useful when pigmentation is hormonally influenced or persistent."

Try: Alpha arbutin 

"Another favourite of mine, alpha arbutin gently reduces the appearance of dark spots by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production, without irritating the skin."

Try: Cysteamine 

"A promising modern pigment regulator, it works across multiple pigment pathways and helps rebalance abnormal melanin production, rather than just “bleaching” the skin. This is why it can be effective for stubborn, recurring discolouration when used correctly and consistently."

Try: Vitamin C 

"Vitamin C can be useful in pigmentation routines as it helps to brighten, provides antioxidant protection, and supports collagen, which improves overall skin quality and radiance."

Try: SPF 50

"The non-negotiable for pigmentation is a daily broad-spectrum SPF. If you treat hyperpigmentation without sun protection, you are essentially taking one step forward and two steps back. For melasma-prone skin, tinted SPF with iron oxides can be especially helpful as it provides additional protection against visible light."

Uneven texture

"Uneven texture is when the skin surface does not look or feel smooth. It may appear as roughness, bumps, dullness, and more visible pores. You may also notice that your make-up sits unevenly on the skin because of this unevenness. Texture issues usually result from dead skin cell build-up, congestion, dehydration, and barrier disruption. As we age, changes in collagen can also contribute, as the skin becomes less firm and the surface appears less tight and refined." CM

Try: Retinoids 

"Since retinoids support healthy cell turnover and collagen production, they are fundamental when it comes to improving skin texture. Over time they improve skin thickness, smoothness, pore appearance, and fine lines."

Try: Acids

"When I want to refine the surface and enhance clarity, I use gentle exfoliating acids. Mandelic acid is a good option if you are sensitive or prone to pigmentation, while lactic acid can be excellent for smoothing and supporting hydration. Glycolic acid can also be very effective, if you don’t have sensitive, reactive skin. Hyaluronic acid is important here as well, because when the skin is properly hydrated it looks plumper, reflects light more evenly, and immediately appears more luminous.”

Redness

“Redness is often a key indicator that the skin barrier is compromised, which will trigger inflammation. Inflammation may arise from a number of causes, it can be linked to extrinsic factors, which include seasonal changes like heat to cold (and vice versa), lifestyle choices such as alcohol intake, as well as quality of diet—highly processed, refined foods, as well as foods with a high glycemic index, can all lead to systemic inflammation, and ultimately contribute to redness. Over exfoliation or regimes which are aggressive will further compromise the skin barrier, leaving it vulnerable to inflammation and irritation—particularly during colder winter months." AB

Try: Ceramides

"These are lipids that play a key role in maintaining a healthy skin barrier as they help skin cells remain intact, therefore locking in moisture and protecting the skin from extrinsic factors that can lead to redness."

Try: Hyaluronic acid 

"Redness may arise in skin that’s sensitised as well as dehydrated, making hyaluronic acid the perfect active to include in your routine. It boosts the skin's hydration levels thanks to its humectant properties, and builds a protective layer on the skin that helps strengthen the barrier and reduce irritation, allowing redness to settle and the complexion to look calmer and more even."

Try: Niacinamide

"Niacinamide is another ingredient which I find effective in calming inflammation and reducing redness, as it helps strengthen the skin barrier and regulate the skin’s inflammatory response. Over time, this can also improve red-toned unevenness and blotchy discolouration that develops when the skin is chronically irritated."

Dullness

"Skin may appear dull for a number of reasons. These may include an ineffectual day-to-day skincare routine, seasonal effects, specifically winter weather conditions where there is less humidity in the air, coupled with the drying effects of central heating. Plus, hot showers and baths, which may contribute to a lacklustre and dull appearance. In addition, a build-up of dead skin cells on the surface can prevent light from reflecting evenly, making the complexion look flat and tired. Dehydration also plays a key role, as when skin lacks water it appears less plump and less radiant. Reduced cell turnover, which naturally slows with age, can further contribute to uneven texture and loss of brightness, making skin look dull, even when it is otherwise healthy." AB

Try: Exfoliators

"Adding exfoliating ingredients can often quickly and visibly improve skin clarity and radiance. These may range from physical exfoliants, to skincare ingredients which exfoliate as part of their array of benefits. Glycolic acid is a great example, as this AHA is one of my favourites to brighten and polish the skin’s appearance—it is also highly effective at boosting collagen and elastin, as well as promoting a smoother and more even overall appearance."

Try: Retinol 

"A highly effective ingredient at combating dull skin. Retinol boosts cell turnover, helping old, light-blocking skin cells shed more efficiently so fresher, brighter skin can come through. Its refining and exfoliating properties improve surface clarity and texture, while collagen support helps the skin look plump and reflective, all of which contributes to a more luminous, even-looking complexion.”

Lines & wrinkles

"With the passage of time, skin intrinsically ages through a number of processes. One of the most profound age-related changes which disproportionately affects women from the peri-menopause and beyond, is collagen decline and loss of elasticity. These two structural changes significantly influence the onset of lines and wrinkles, laxity, and overall skin ageing. In addition, other core components within skin intrinsically decline, such as hyaluronic acid, which not only has detrimental effects on the levels of hydration within the skin, but also contributes to the onset of lines and wrinkles as skin loses its plumpness." AB

Try: Peptides

"One of my favourite classes of ingredients to combat lines and wrinkles are peptides. Made up of short chains of amino acids, peptides have regenerative and cell signalling abilities that help stimulate collagen production and support skin repair. By strengthening the skin’s structural framework, they improve firmness and elasticity, which helps soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and gives skin a smoother, more youthful look."

Try: Retinoids & retinoid alternatives

"Bakuchiol is a botanical and highly effective ingredient with a range of anti-ageing benefits, that’s great for more sensitive skin types. It effectively mimics many of the benefits of retinol, specifically boosting different types of collagen to support skin integrity and effectively strengthen skin. Retinoids themselves are considered the gold standard for treating lines and wrinkles, as they directly stimulate collagen production and accelerate cell turnover, helping to smooth fine lines, improve skin texture and reduce the depth of more established wrinkles over time.”

Final thoughts: make make-up optional

Ditching your foundation is not about perfection, it is about consistency and skin health. When you treat your concerns with the right actives, your skin will reap the rewards, making going make-up free no longer a dream but a reality.