The retinoid skincare family, ingredients derived from vitamin A that vary in strength and of which retinol is the most popular, has long been revered as the gold standard when it comes to anti-ageing, as well as being effective for breakouts and acne scarring.

But this already confusing sector of the skincare market—be it due to terminology, percentages on packaging and our tendency to believe that if a little is good, more must be better—is now also facing the arrival of EU regulations that will limit how much can be infused into face and body care. The good news is that what was touted by scaremongers as ‘the EU retinol ban,’ turns out to be anything but.

“The EU regulations on retinol have caused quite a stir among skincare enthusiasts, leading to some confusion and concern,” says Julie Scott, EV Expert and Owner & Clinical Director, Facial Aesthetics in Essex.

“This is not a ban but a safety measure, aimed at reducing the risk of adverse effects from excessive vitamin A exposure. I believe it will enhance patient safety by reducing risk of irritation and sensitivity, thereby building greater trust in our treatments. These changes will impact over-the-counter products while medical professionals will continue to have access to higher concentrations, ensuring those who need stronger formulations can still receive them under professional guidance.”

What are the new EU regulations?

While retinol won’t disappear, new rules state that the current 1 per cent limit will drop to 0.3 per cent for leave-on and rinse-off skincare, with a 0.05 per cent cap for body care. The notable difference in percentages comes down to the fact you’ll use significantly more to cover the neck down, ensuring less exposure to vitamin A for the body as a whole.

“The controls and permissions for ingredients in cosmetic products change on a regular basis for a host of reasons,” explains Amanda Isom, Regulatory Affairs Director at Bloom Regulatory, which works with cosmetic companies to ensure they comply with worldwide regulations. “The changes for retinol are just one of these instances, many of which go unnoticed. Although only happening in the EU at the moment, products are likely to be sold in both Great Britain and the EU, so will contain the same level of retinol in order to comply with EU requirements.”

Why the change?

In essence, retinol increases cell turnover and renewal, which results in better shedding of cells on the surface to make skin smoother, brighter and fresher-looking. But for some, if retinol isn’t used correctly it can cause redness, irritation and a disrupted skin barrier, particularly in sensitive complexions.

Combined with concern about ingesting a diet high in vitamin A via foods such as fish oil, liver and butternut squash while simultaneously applying high quantities of retinol, the EU decided to limit levels to keep shoppers’ health and faces safe. This new law, enforced by the Scientific Committee of Consumer Safety (a group of toxicology and safety experts for non-food consumer products) aims to monitor and review ever-evolving skincare science and introduce legislation where required.

How are skincare products likely to change?

Although it may affect some products, this won't happen overnight. Restrictions will be rolled out over 36 months from the end of 2024, meaning brands have time to reformulate if necessary. “Many formulas on the market will already be below the level that has recently been introduced, so won’t be affected,” says Isom. “Also, the limit on vitamin A amounts for off-the-shelf formulas will not apply to new products until November ‘25, so the EU estimates some older products may continue to appear on the shelves until May ‘27.”

There will no doubt be some skincare that falls victim and vanishes, but shoppers in search of higher percentage formulas can switch to online dermatology services that custom-make skincare formulas using prescription retinoids like tretinoin. Don’t however, be tempted to look to the skincare grey market.

“I’m a bit concerned that some patients might seek stronger concentrations from unregulated sources,” warns Scott. “These products can be dangerous and lack necessary safety assurances. It’s crucial to educate clients on the importance of only using regulated, professionally recommended products to protect their health and achieve the best results.”

What’s the future of the retinoid family?

“Skincare companies are already working on ensuring that products with lower retinoid levels remain effective,” shares Scott. “This involves combining retinol with other active ingredients that can enhance its benefits, such as peptides, antioxidants and hyaluronic acid. Additionally, advanced delivery systems are being developed to improve the penetration and efficacy of retinoids at these lower concentrations.

"Brands are also exploring alternative retinoid derivatives that offer similar benefits without the same level of irritation. Importantly, we can still achieve excellent results using other active ingredients, which can often provide effective outcomes without the risks associated with high doses of vitamin A.”

So excitingly, the upshot of these new restrictions is likely to result in innovation around ingredients and formulations. Skincare may soon be entering a new era of ‘less is more…’