As the world resumes some normalcy and we move on from pandemic-induced reactions such as ‘Zoom boom’ treatments, aesthetics clinics are gearing up for exciting times ahead. From revolutionary lasers and next generation injectables to pioneering topical solutions, 2023 looks set to be a year of groundbreaking innovation.    

The anti-acne laser

Predicted to be a game-changer, AviClear is the only FDA-approved laser for treating acne. “This is going to be as revolutionary as Botox,” says EV Expert, Dr Nestor Demosthenous. “It will stop as acne as effectively as Roaccutane for 12 to 18 months in three sessions a month apart, but without the nasty side effects. Its wavelength works on sebum to shrink or disable oil glands, which tend to be larger in acne suffers, churning out more oil. What we can apply topically decreases oil production but doesn’t shrink oil glands; AviClear will target exactly that. There’s minimal risk, it’s appropriate for teens, adults or occasional, hormonal-type acne, plus while a little redness may occur, there’s no significant downtime.” AviClear can work on active, surface acne as well as anything forming underneath the skin and clinical trials have found that future breakouts are shorter, less intense and more infrequent following treatment.
 

The new toxin boom

A handful of muscle-relaxing neurotoxins have dominated wrinkle-easing injectables in the UK, but new options are arriving here, each with their own specific benefits, allowing doctors to offer even more finely-tuned, customized results. “One of the joys of treating patients is having a varied toolkit to use,” enthuses Etre Vous Expert, Dr Emmaline Ashley. “It’s wonderful to have a variety of products so practitioners develop a unique style, tailored to patients’ individual needs. These new toxins have their own unique properties. Daxxify and Alluzience have been marketed as longer-lasting toxins and Daxxify may also appeal as it contains no animal-derived components or human albumin. Nuceiva is reported to be extremely precise with very little spread, making it suitable for targeting small muscle groups or higher risk areas. We are looking at a future where clinicians can really tailor injectables and use multiple products across different areas to create truly spectacular results.”

The filler alternative

Another new injectable is polynucleotides (PDRN), rich in regenerative benefits to help repair tissue by stimulating fibroblasts, encouraging cell turnover, improving elasticity, boosting collagen production and hydrating skin thanks to powerful wound-healing polymers. Practitioners are excited about this gel injectables ability to treat acne scarring, hyperpigmentation and rosacea as well as being suitable for use on the neck, décolletage, inner arms, thighs and knees. “polynucleotides provide a good option for people with skin damage from UV, ageing and acne scarring,” says EV Expert Dr Eleni Liaka. “We can provide skin tightening and skin smoothing without any deep structural injections, so perfect for patients seeking a general improvement in skin quality or particular lesions they want to look better. They are optimal too for addressing crepe-like skin that’s very thin, dry and wrinkled, especially in the mid and lower face, which can be challenging to treat.” Also making it stand out, this injectable will help quell inflammation and prevent pigmentation, encouraging skin to look calm and even. “Treatment requires up to 7 days of downtime due to possible redness and raised bumps following the injections,” adds Dr Liaka. “However, it’s gives excellent results for clients who want to avoid structural fillers but prefer general skin rejuvenation and healing. It can be given multiple times, ideally three to four sessions every 28 days, and results are permanent if skin-protecting protocols, including UV protection, are followed.” Look for Plenhyage XL and Juvenus.

The does-it-all topical

For a bump in multi-tasking benefits, practitioners are looking to exosomes, tiny bubbles released from stem cells that act as building blocks and messengers to repair and rejuvenate skin, reduce inflammation and boost hair growth. Infused into a solution and massaged on after microneedling or laser for better penetration, the technology is also being used in topical creams. “Exosome therapy is cutting edge as the amazing technology will treat different conditions at the same time,” explains Dr Raquel Amado, Director at Dr Raquel Skin & Medical Cosmetics. “These nanoparticles promote cell-to-cell communication. They travel between fibroblasts and transfer their growth factors, cytokines and peptides, which increases production of collagen and elastin. They can help skin rejuvenation, anti-inflammatory effects and reconstruction of the skin barrier. I recommend a course of five, two weeks apart for the best results.” More potent than PRP injections, benefits include hair growth, skin tightening, reduction in pigmentation and dark circles, less redness and inflammation in acne or rosacea, plus a boost to radiance. Studies also suggest exosomes reduce wrinkles and increase skin elasticity significantly more than retinol, making them the future of anti-ageing.

The holistic body approach

Driven by the rise in wellness and self-care, clinics and clients are increasingly seeing appearance, health and mood as intertwined. With the desire for results paired with convenience, devices and treatments are emerging that can target more than one problem, for example simultaneously targeting skin, muscle and cellulite or delivering more than one ingredient at a time. So technology that can deliver on multiple problems at once will likely be a game-changer in body treatments. “Not only are we seeing more advanced devices becoming available but we’re also starting to use them differently,” says Dr Nestor. “For example, we have a Trusculpt Flex body sculpting device that exercises the muscle and bulks it up. As a big driver for many clinics is moving into the wellness space, we’re using it for rehab purposes after injury or surgery, but we’re also using it for longevity of health and lifespan in older clients to improve and build muscle because they aren’t used to resistance training, which studies show we all should be doing in our later years. So, there’s a shift in our mindset from wanting the perfect bum to wanting to use devices for overall health.